RACHEL'S: madre mia

I grew up in southern California in a Mexican-American family, so my eternal search for good Mexican food in New York City is like a hungry baby searching for Mother's Milk. One of the places that helps me satisfy this need is Rachel's in Park Slope, Brooklyn. This used to be an order-at-the-counter and pick-your-food-up-on-a-plastic-tray kind of place, but not too long ago, it became less taqueria and more restaurant. Nowadays, if you want to eat in, you have no choice but table service, the burrito-making station has become a full-service bar, televisions have been installed, and of course, the prices have gone up. I was disappointed when I first learned of this, but I've been back a few times since The Change, and I'm relieved to report that I can still get my comfort food fix there.

In fact, I comforted myself there the other night with the Mole Enchilada platter ($12.50). I chose chicken as my filling, although vegetable, pork, and beef are also options. The sauce is not too sweet, with a touch of spice, and when paired with the tender morsels of chicken is quite satisfying. This comes with rice and beans and you can choose between red, black, or refried pinto (I can never say no to the call of refried beans, even if my body feels compelled to answer the call throughout the rest of the night). I was pleased to see that unlike many "Mexican" restaurants, Rachel's doesn't suffocate their platters of food under piles of melted cheese. This is all preceded by the freshly made and complimentary tortilla chips and salsa. The salsa that automatically comes with the chips is no spicier than tomato sauce, but also available are a tasty variety of homemade salsas that pack more of spicy punch. To enjoy all of this in their outdoor seating area, on a warm summer evening under strings of lights and a leafy tree, while sipping their refreshing watermelon drink ($2.25), makes for quite a filling and satisfying meal. I could now go home and sleep like a contented baby.

NOTE: Along with the other changes, Rachel's introduced an additional section to their menu from their mesquite grill. I scoffed at the idea of a Mexican restaurant offering burgers, but in the midst of a recent red meat super-craving, I had a cheeseburger ($7.75) delivered to my apartment. I scoff no more. It comes with shoestring fries and your choice of cheddar or mozzarella cheese. The beef was cooked exactly as I'd requested and comes with the traditional lettuce and tomato. The pleasant surprises were the spicy chipotle mayonnaise under the bun and the crispy, salty french fries on the side. It was a generous helping of fries, and good thing, because I quickly formed an addiction to them. Burgers, baby back ribs ($12.25), and the rest of the mesquite grill menu are available during the week after 5pm and on weekends after 3pm.

Mole Enchiladas under festive, but dim, lighting. I'm pretty sure that the ancient Aztecs used the same sort of lights at their restaurants.


Yet another reason to visit Rachel's. On a Tuesday. If you're from California.


Rachel's
408 5th Ave., between 7th and 8th Street
Park Slope, Brooklyn
718.788.1137