Saturday, July 19, 2008

KINARA Indian Food: let me swim in it

Dear Diary,

Yesterday, I had a lunchtime tryst with the most amazing Chicken Tikka Masala that I've ever had! I can't stop thinking about that smoky, rust-colored sauce and those tender pieces of chicken, but really, it's the Sauce. While I was eating, my boyfriend had to point out that I was making little grunty noises of satisfaction with every bite. I tried to control myself. I'd close my eyes and could see the Ganges River, the history of food, the Dawn of Time. It was a Bollywood spectacular in my mouth. When I finished my meal, even though I was full, my mouth wanted more. I would have licked that little serving bowl clean if I'd been alone. And now, the depth of flavors, perfectly balanced, linger in my dreams.

I must have more.

your faithful servant,
me

NOTE: Kinara has a fabulous lunch special offered every day from noon-4pm. If you eat in-house during those hours, you get 50% off your entree. The Chicken Tikka Masala is normally $10.95, unless you're smart and have it for lunch. Who doesn't want to be smart? There are many other delicious items available, but there's a reason why my personal favorite is their #1 best seller.

Thankfully, there wasn't a crowd to hear my audible pleasure.


Everything, even the water, comes in copper.


I'm not a big pea fan, but doused in the Sauce, all becomes right in the world.


Like nectar from the gods.



Kinara Indian Food
473 5th Avenue @ 11th Street
Park Slope, Brooklyn
718.499.3777

Thursday, July 17, 2008

LANNAM Vietnamese Cuisine: Deal of the Week!

True, the Oxtail Pho is one of the luncheon specials, but considering the heat and humidity outside, the last thing I wanted to do was hover over a steaming bowl of soup, no matter how flavorful. I went with the Rice Vermicelli with Grilled Beef and knew from the first bite that I had chosen wisely. The $6.95 price didn't hurt either. This was beginning to look like a contender for this week's Deal.

The noodles come buried under multiple pieces of delicious grilled beef and a fresh mixture of cucumber, lettuce, bean sprouts and cilantro on the side, along with two dipping sauces: a peanut sauce, and a sweet Nuoc Cham. I was in a Nuoc Cham mood and used the sauce liberally. The flavors of the whole dish, the neutral noodles, the meatiness enhanced by the sauces, and the cilantro, took me back to my days in Vietnam exploring the stalls of freshly made street food. Okay. I kid. I've never been to Vietnam, but I would imagine that if I had, this sort of dish would easily be my Vietnamese comfort food.

I can certainly put away my fair share when eating, but I was amazed that I had to enlist help in finishing my meal. And I'm not even talking about the piles of noodles. They gave me so much meat that I should have stopped halfway through and put the rest in a doggie bag to make tacos at home later. But I didn't. I forged ahead and waddled out of Lannam with a sleepy smile on my face instead. This was certainly the Deal of the Week.

NOTE: Their $6.95 luncheon menu is served daily from 11:30am -4:30pm and there are quite a few options, most with your choice of fried, brown, or white rice.

Happy lunchers who know a good deal in an air conditioned place when they see one.


Rice Vermicelli with Grilled Beef


Lannam Vietnamese Cuisine
121 University Place @ 13th Street
Union Square, Manhattan
212.420.1179
(There's also a location in Murray Hill at 393 3rd Ave @ 28th Street, 212.686.5168)

BONNIE'S GRILL: like ships passing in the night

It was mid-afternoon, the sun was burning hot, and I was in the mood for a burger. It was a tad early in the day for Rachel's to be serving up their mesquite burgers, and since Bonnie's is known for their version, my boyfriend and I went down the street to Bonnie's.

Bonnie's is small -- a handful of tables and a counter, but it's got personality. There's a feeling of the "American diner" here and as the grill is in plain sight of, well, everyone, it's fun to watch buffalo wings being tossed in the air from a giant bowl as they're coated with their spicy sauce or to see the flames under the grill reach for the stove hood and char the burgers. Which brings me to my first observation of my burger: although the inside was cooked to medium as I'd requested, the outside was a bit more charred than I cared for it to be. I know, I know. The name of the burger is the Spiced Black Angus Sirloin Burger ($9.95), but I could've done with a little more spice and a little less char. I can say that all the ingredients were fresh, including the tasty fries (skin on) and the spicy mayo that complements them so well.

Secondly, eating the burger proved to be messier than I'd anticipated. The large patty was sandwiched between lettuce, tomato, red onion, pickles, and a good-sized kaiser roll. I was happy about that, but with each bite, the bun broke apart. The pickle slices were thick, perhaps too thick because they kept popping out of the burger. Now, this is not to say that the burger didn't taste good; it did, but the ingredients felt very separate as if they were not making a team effort. I realize I may be picky, but after decades of burger-eating, I've learned that for my taste, I like a burger that isn't dropping chunks of itself from the get-go and more importantly, where the flavors meld together happily. It was a good burger, but not the sort I'd crave.

NOTE: The $9.95 for the Sirloin Burger includes your choice of fries, salad, cup of soup, cup of chili, or spicy cole slaw, and your choice of many toppings including Swiss, American, or Cheddar cheese. Canadian bacon is an additional $1.



Bonnie's Grill
278 Fifth Ave. (between 1st St. and Garfield)
Park Slope, Brooklyn
718.369.9527

Sunday, July 13, 2008

CAFE REGULAR: a love poem


Drink lattes.

Drink lattes from Cafe Regular.
I do.
And I'm a better person for it.
-
Ben Franklin

I step into Cafe Regular. The Parisian surroundings appeal to my inner Amelie. I order a latte from the Irish guy behind the bar. I can't decide if he's shy or grumpy. Or both. He creates my latte. I sit on the school-desk-type bench against the wall and take my first sip. It's velvet. It's poetry. It's all that is good in this world poured into a cup. It's a revelation.

That was my first visit to Cafe Regular. I've recently been away from it for a few months and today I corrected that situation. I needed to see if the coffee is as I remembered. Martin the Irishman who runs the place was not there, but he taught his underling well. She poured me a smooth latte ($2.50). No bitterness, just creamy goodness (they use La Colombe). This is certainly the best in the city.

Many people order their coffees to-go and I understand that it only takes a handful of customers to make the place feel crowded, but these people who grab and go are missing out on the experience of the atmosphere and Martin's dry humor. Besides, there is no way that coffee can taste as good in a paper cup as it does in a ceramic one.

Do you need a hard-boiled egg (50 cents), a tasty baked good ($2), or a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice ($3)? Visit Cafe Regular. Need to escape the city for 10 minutes and rejuvenate yourself with the highest quality coffee being served in New York? Run to Cafe Regular.

And now the tour:

A quiet moment


I'm loving the phone and the menu. And the orange tin walls.


Attention has been paid to even the furthest corner.


Details, my friend, details.


Martin as a lad. There are also old photos of his parents.


The Reason I return.


Cafe Regular
318 11th Street, just below 5th Ave.
Park Slope, Brooklyn
718.768.4170

TASTY NEWS!

Word on the street is that the return of the Red Hook Vendors may happen as early as the weekend of July 19th! I hang my head in shame that I've never visited them or their inexpensive manna from heaven that they cook up on the spot. This happy gathering of Latin American food vendors usually takes place every weekend during warm weather, but due to a crackdown by the city last year, there have been a number of hurtles slowing their return, the last of which is the Health Department inspections of the vendors' trucks and carts. I'm hoping that these go smoothly and quickly so that I too can know of the authentic, fresh food served up near the corner of Bay and Clinton Streets in Red Hook, Brooklyn. Mmmm, tacos, pupusas, huaraches, tamales -- this may be the comfort food nirvana for which I've been searching!

JEOLLADO: sushi goodness

Away from the mayhem that is St. Mark's Place, sits the breezy Jeollado on east 4th street in the East Village. It had been quite a while since I'd indulged in sushi, so I was really looking forward to this.

We each received a tiny, fresh complimentary salad of seaweed, mushroom, and cucumber topped with a delicious and sweet ginger/miso dressing. For an appetizer, I tried the pork gyoza ($4). Crispy on the outside, moist porky-ness on the inside. It was particularly nice when dipped in the accompanying spicy soy sauce. For my entree, I quite enjoyed the house special Love at First Sight roll ($9.50) with eel, tuna, and avocado. There were also crunchy bits of tempura, all of it drizzled with a sweet sauce. It was a large roll, and I was quite full by the time I reached the end of it. I also tasted the Erik Roll ($10) with tender yellowtail, tuna, and salmon. It was very refreshing and I'll probably order that the next time I visit. The wait staff was quite attentive and my only complaint was when they presented us with the check without asking if we wanted anything else, like dessert. I would've valiantly found a little room for dessert, but since I was already pushing the limits of my belt, it's probably just as well that they didn't ask.

NOTE: They often offer discounted specials and their regular menu includes a Korean section with many variations of Bibimbob ($10-$12) amongst other traditional dishes. Stop at an ATM first because it's cash only!

Gyoza longing to be dipped.


The appropriately named Love at First Sight.


the Erik Roll


Jeollado
116 E. 4th St., between 1st and 2nd Ave.
East Village, Manhattan
212.260.7696

RACHEL'S: madre mia


I grew up in southern California in a Mexican-American family, so my eternal search for good Mexican food in New York City is like a hungry baby searching for Mother's Milk. One of the places that helps me satisfy this need is Rachel's in Park Slope, Brooklyn. This used to be an order-at-the-counter and pick-your-food-up-on-a-plastic-tray kind of place, but not too long ago, it became less taqueria and more restaurant. Nowadays, if you want to eat in, you have no choice but table service, the burrito-making station has become a full-service bar, televisions have been installed, and of course, the prices have gone up. I was disappointed when I first learned of this, but I've been back a few times since The Change, and I'm relieved to report that I can still get my comfort food fix there.

In fact, I comforted myself there the other night with the Mole Enchilada platter ($12.50). I chose chicken as my filling, although vegetable, pork, and beef are also options. The sauce is not too sweet, with a touch of spice, and when paired with the tender morsels of chicken is quite satisfying. This comes with rice and beans and you can choose between red, black, or refried pinto (I can never say no to the call of refried beans, even if my body feels compelled to answer the call throughout the rest of the night). I was pleased to see that unlike many "Mexican" restaurants, Rachel's doesn't suffocate their platters of food under piles of melted cheese. This is all preceded by the freshly made and complimentary tortilla chips and salsa. The salsa that automatically comes with the chips is no spicier than tomato sauce, but also available are a tasty variety of homemade salsas that pack more of spicy punch. To enjoy all of this in their outdoor seating area, on a warm summer evening under strings of lights and a leafy tree, while sipping their refreshing watermelon drink ($2.25), makes for quite a filling and satisfying meal. I could now go home and sleep like a contented baby.

NOTE: Along with the other changes, Rachel's introduced an additional section to their menu from their mesquite grill. I scoffed at the idea of a Mexican restaurant offering burgers, but in the midst of a recent red meat super-craving, I had a cheeseburger ($7.75) delivered to my apartment. I scoff no more. It comes with shoestring fries and your choice of cheddar or mozzarella cheese. The beef was cooked exactly as I'd requested and comes with the traditional lettuce and tomato. The pleasant surprises were the spicy chipotle mayonnaise under the bun and the crispy, salty french fries on the side. It was a generous helping of fries, and good thing, because I quickly formed an addiction to them. Burgers, baby back ribs ($12.25), and the rest of the mesquite grill menu are available during the week after 5pm and on weekends after 3pm.

Mole Enchiladas under festive, but dim, lighting. I'm pretty sure that the ancient Aztecs used the same sort of lights at their restaurants.


Yet another reason to visit Rachel's. On a Tuesday. If you're from California.


Rachel's
408 5th Ave., between 7th and 8th Street
Park Slope, Brooklyn
718.788.1137