sampling for Hungry City Guides: BAR TANO: pasta to write home about

I had no idea when we set out that I'd be enjoying such tasty Italian food across from the Mexico Tire Shop and the Yemeni-American Association. We were actually on our way to a different restaurant, a favorite, no less, when we passed Bar Tano. Two regular customers were outside having a smoke, saw our hesitation and encouraged us to try it. It must've been kismet.

Once we stepped inside, I was transported to old Europe: dark woods, tiled floor, huge mirrors and a stamped tin ceiling. The owner's grandfather was nicknamed "Tano" and I'd venture to say he'd be pleased. It felt very neighborhood-y. Our waiter was friendly and attentive and very patient with our questions. To start, I ordered the Fichi ($3): a bruschetta with creamy goat cheese on top of a sweet fig spread. I could have eaten several of those. And perhaps one day soon, I'll sit down and do just that. My boyfriend enjoyed his Bruschetta Pomodoro ($3) followed by the satisfying Costolette ($13), a panino filled with braised short ribs, caramelized onions and swiss cheese; homemade potato chips on the side. Although Bar Tano has plenty of small plate options, I wanted an entree and chose the robust Penne Tano ($11) which had a gorgonzola sauce with capers that proudly stood up while I took notice. It was smoky and pleasantly surprising. I would happily order that again. Both of my choices were based upon the suggestion of the waiter; kudos to him. We indulged in the rich pear tart ($7) for dessert. Thinly sliced pear nestled in a pillow of sweet custard, surrounded by puff pastry with a dollop of real whipped cream on the side. Very sweet and very fresh. This is about the time I slipped into my food coma.

There's also a well-stocked bar and an outside seating area if you don't mind sitting at the intersection of 9th Street and Third Avenue. Our waiter mentioned that many of their customers are regulars and I can see why. This area in the shadow of the F train can be a bit of a no man's land, so Bar Tano is a nice addition to the auto body shops and treeless stretches of sidewalk that we call home.

fabulous Fichi! (the lighting at Bar Tano is warm and low - everyone looks beautiful!)